Tuesday, October 23, 2012

An Introduction To Studio Lighting & Equipment

An Introduction To Studio Lighting & Equipment


Are you planning to put up a small home studio or are getting serious about extending your lighting kit? At one point of time or other you will have to go in for it with your hard earned money. It is quite overwhelming to get involved in buying the appropriate lighting equipment; especially when you are just getting started with artificial lighting - so many brands, multiple varieties and a never ending list of studio lighting equipment & accessories can cause you nightmares. One simple thing you can do is to begin with a basic studio set-up and later expand as need arises. And to get you started with a basic set-up, here is a foundational introduction to fundamental photographic lighting equipment - to help you decide what do you essentially need to get started.



The lighting equipment basically falls in three primary categories. First the light source, secondly the light modifiers and last but not the least you’ll need the grips and stands to set-up lights for professional photo-shoots.



Let’s start with the light sources…


Light Sources


Lights, tools and equipments offer such expansive variety that a beginner easily get tangled in the issues like,


  • What would be good affordable starting studio lights?
  • What should I invest in - flash guns or studio strobes…
  • What is a better option; basic home lights like tungsten lamps and florescent lights or dedicated studio flashes?

Well there can be no right or wrong and good or bad lighting decision. It is just that you need to know the pros and cons of various lighting sources. This will help you in choosing the light source that works for you.



The artificial light source thus can be divided into two broad categories:



Continuous Lighting: Continuous lights include the basic lights used at home like tungsten bulbs, fluorescent lights, LEDs and HMI lights. Though they come cheap, they have a high running cost and aren’t as versatile as studio flash lighting. Considering the power consumption, mobility & control over output, flashes are far more handy and useful. And this is why professional photographers favor studio lights over other lights.



Studio Flash: The studio lights are classified as flash guns & strobes and strobe lights are further categorized as monolights and head & power packs. Each light source has its own definite purpose.



Flash guns: Flash guns also known as speed-lights are external flash units employed by the photographers. These battery powered flash units are mounted to the hot shoe or can be used off-camera by attaching them to the slave units. The sole purpose of the external flashes is to boost the flash-range of on-camera flash.


An Introduction To Studio Lighting & Equipment



Nikon SB-700 Speedlight Shoe Mount Flash



Flash guns, however have their own pros and cons. They come in handy for outdoor lighting set-up owing to its lightweight, but lags behind studio strobes as far as light power, recycle times, light modification and pre-visualization of lighting effects is concerned. The detailed distinction between the two is however out of the scope of this post.



Studio Strobes: Studio strobes are large, powerful and operate independent of camera. As mentioned earlier, studio lights or strobes are of two kinds: Monolights and Head & Power packs.



The head and power packs consists of a flash and a small power pack that acts as the generator for operating the flash light. You can attach multiple flash heads to a single power pack and all these flash heads are comfortably controlled by the controls & knobs provided on the power pack itself.


An Introduction To Studio Lighting & Equipment



Norman D24R Pack, 4- IL2500 Head/Reflector Kit



A monolight on the other hand is a portable photographic flash lighting unit which has its own independent power source. Unlike a head & power pack kit, it does not depend on a centralized power supply. Each monolight has its own power settings and light output.


An Introduction To Studio Lighting & Equipment



Elinchrom D-LITE4 IT 400Ws Monolight (90-240VAC)



Using monolights or head & power pack in your lighting set-up depends on a lot of things. First one is of course the budget, because head & power packs come on the costlier side. But if your shooting against the light source, take shooting against the sun for instance where you want to overpower a bright source of light, you will definitely need more power and better recycle times. Or when you have a complex lighting set-up, you will like to control the lights from a single point instead of fidgeting with single monolights. Under such situations, head & power pack is more suitable.



But again there is no right & wrong or good & bad about choosing the lighting equipment. Both have their advantages and disadvantages and we would love to touch upon this topic in a dedicated post.


Light Modifiers


Studio lighting set-up is a controlled lighting environment and just having the light sources at disposal is not enough. You need a number of light modifiers to actually control the spread of light. Some modifiers are best at use for reflecting the light (commonly known as reflectors), some are used for diffusing the light (the diffusers) and there are yet other modifiers which are used to output concentrated and focus light.



The very first reflector at the photographer’s disposal is the one that comes attached to the flash itself. These standard reflectors resemble the lampshade and are fixed to the flash heads. These reflectors help in casting directional light towards the subject. Some of them like Profoto ProHead Flash Head for instance comes with a zoom reflector which allows you to slide and lock the reflector to thus control the spread of light.



Next comes the umbrellas and softboxes.



Umbrellas are the one of the basic lighting equipment you will find in any basic lighting kit. These reflective umbrellas are used by photographers as a diffusion device which softens the light and evenly spreads the light over a larger area. The strobe light is mounted to the umbrella in such a way that the light hits the inside of the umbrella and bounces back to the subject with soft light & even illumination.



An Introduction To Studio Lighting & Equipment




The same effect can be achieved in one of the two ways; either by using a shoot through umbrella which illuminates the subject by the pass through light or by using a reflective umbrella which lights the subject through bounced back light.



In both the cases, the soft light spills and wraps around the subject. This spilled light may bounce of the walls & ceiling and end up illuminating a wider area. This may act as a hindrance for getting the desired light effects. In such cases, soft-boxes are a better option.



A softbox is also used for softening and diffusing the light. Softboxes come in varied shapes and sizes but at the most basic it consists of a reflective surface surrounded by a diffuser. The flash head is fitted in such a way that the light falls on the reflective surface, passes through the translucent diffuser and produce a controlled soft light. This is to say that the light coming out of the softbox is more controlled and doesn’t spill elsewhere.



An Introduction To Studio Lighting & Equipment




Then there are snoots, barndoors, flags and honeycomb grids to the photographer’s exposure. These equipments allow for a more concentrated light. A snoot is a conical shaped tool which fits over the flash head to produce a narrow beam of light which can be used as accent or kicker light to separate the subject from the background. Barndoors is a set of adjustable flaps attached to the light for directing and obstructing the light from spilling. Photographers also use flags for blocking the light. A flag is usually an opaque object placed in the way of light to cast a shadow, provide negative fill, or protect the lens from a flare.



One more interesting tool for studio photography is the honeycomb grid. This metallic honeycomb shaped grid directs more focused light to the subject.


An Introduction To Studio Lighting & Equipment



Vello 1/4″ Honeycomb Grid for Portable Flash



Other than this there are various flash accessories; flash reflectors, flash diffusers and the likes which help you in modifying the light. But as a beginner, having hands-on experience with the umbrellas, softboxes and honeycomb grids can get you rewarding results.



And now let’s put up the last piece of the lighting equipment puzzle in place - the light stands and grips; the lighting equipment fundamental block for building the required lighting set-up.


Grips & Light Stands


Grips refer to anything that supports the lighting set-up. It includes the light stands, boom arms, clips & clamps which are used for holding the backdrops, reflectors and light sources. You can find two varieties of light stands - lightweight stands and heavy duty durable C stands.



The lightweight stands are portable and good for use in indoor photo-shoots. There mobility is an advantage for easily arranging and moving the lights around the studio. The lightweight stands have sandbags attached so as to the weight of lights and reflectors. Some of them also have an air shock feature. The air shock feature makes sure that the lights or reflectors don’t break when the knobs are accidentally loosened.


An Introduction To Studio Lighting & Equipment



Westcott 750 Photo Basics 7.0-Foot Light Stand



Then there are C-stands with their own set of benefits. C-stands are more durable, stable and can take up much more weight as compared to lightweight tripod type light stands. These durable stands come in handy to face-off windy weather while shooting outdoors and thus save you a lot of damage.


Conclusion


This is just an overview of various lighting equipments at your disposal when entering the world of photographic lighting equipment. There are a lot of brands and varieties for each of the products. It’s not always wise to invest in new equipment. You can start with a basic lighting kit and spend a few bucks in buying the used gear. Once you know you really need that set of tools or equipment (or the equipment actually works for you), you can buy a new one for yourself.



So what do you have in your lighting kit?


How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portraits



A request I hear over and over from my students, is that they want to know how to create a beautiful, soft, blurred background like the image you see here. There is a big misconception among new photographers that you need to go out and buy an expensive lens with a really big aperture to be able to achieve such a look. While it is true that a larger aperture will give you a shallower depth of field, there are also two other factors involved that many people haven’t heard before or have forgotten. In this article I’m going to show you the three factors to creating the lovely blurred background and how you can most likely do it with the lenses you already own.


The three factors that affect background sharpness are:

  • aperture
  • focal length of the lens
  • distance between the subject and the background

So to demonstrate how this works I’ve created some example photos of a friend’s daughter (because she was a more willing subject than my husband). This first set of images was taken with her about two feet away from the front door of the house. The lenses used for all the example shots are: 16mm, 35mm, 70mm, and 150mm. I am purposely NOT divulging what aperture these are taken with, except that it is the same one in all 8 images below.



***Note: keep in mind I used a Canon 5D MarkIII which is a full frame body, so if you use a camera that has a smaller sensor (one with a crop factor of 1.5x) the equivalent lenses for you would be approximately: 11mm, 24mm, 50mm, 100mm






This second set of images below was taken with her about 20 feet away from the house. Each time I changed lenses I moved further away from her to keep her relatively the same size in the frame.






Notice in this second set of images how much softer the background is, especially in the one taken with the longest lens? Seeing a correlation yet?! Remember ALL EIGHT images above were taken with the same aperture. The only thing I changed in the first set was the focal length of the lens. The only factor changed for the second set of images was the distance to the background, by having her more several feet forward away from the house.


So what about the aperture?


As mentioned, I purposely did not tell you what aperture was used before you saw the images. Would you be surprised if I said they were ALL taken at f5.6? Well, it is true! All the images above were made with an aperture of f5.6. Not the first aperture you think of when someone says “blurred background” right? Have you got f5.6 on your kit lens? If so, did you think you’d never get those nice creamy backgrounds without investing hundreds, or thousands on a lens with a bigger aperture? Think again, and read on!


One more comparison using f2.8


Just to prove the point here are two more sets of images both taken at f2.8. The first with her close to the house, the second with her further away from the house. Notice how much more the lens and distance affects the blur affect on the background, than does the wider aperture? There is really not all that much difference between this set of images and the very first set at f5.6.








What we can learn from this


While using a wide aperture is a factor in creating a blurred background, it is not the only factor, and in my opinion it is not the most important. If I’m doing a portrait I look for a location where I can place my subjects a good distance away from the background, and I’m usually using an 85mm or longer lens to photograph. There is also a happy medium somewhere between that focal length, and using a lens so long that you have to go across the street to shoot it and end up having to yell just so your subjects can hear you. For that reason a 300mm might be a little excessive for portraits. However, using that 300mm for some wildlife or travel photos you should be able to create some nicely blurred backgrounds, knowing what you know now!



Now, go look at the image at the top of the article again?



It too was at f5.6! Bet you didn’t guess that the first time you looked at it, am I right? Can you tell what else is different in that image? If you know, put it in the comments section below. I’m not going to tell you and see if you can figure it out with the following images, taken in the same location.




Taken with a 200mm lens at f2.8




200mm lens at f2.8




200mm lens at f5.6


Practice and more Reading


I challenge you to go out and do this exercise yourself, don’t believe me. Find a willing subject and starting with them close to a background go through lenses from wide to long, trying different apertures. Then repeat with them moved several feet away from the background. Consider this practice ongoing as well with everything you photograph.



Think about how you can use this new information to create images that more closely resemble the vision of how you saw the scene.



To learn more about the aperture in general and what it does, go read: How to use Depth of Field.



Also related is How to Choose the Right Lens, which talks about what different lenses do optically and when you might choose to use each of them. Knowing what aperture and what lens to use to create just the look you desire, is part of putting it all together. The more you think about these things before you take the image, the better your final images will turn out. I guarantee it!



Darlene Hildebrandt is a professional photographer and educator who teaches aspiring amateurs, hobbyists and pros how to improve their photography skills through online photography tutoring, classes, and photography travel tours. Darlene has written the ebook 10 Challenges To Improve Your Photography which you can find as a resource on her website. She can also be found on Twitter at @ProPhotoTutor



Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.



How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portraits


Altai Mountains by Alexander Nerozya


Stunning nature photography from Altai Mountains by Alexander Nerozya. Enjoy ;)











































Author’s portfolio


Saturday, October 20, 2012

photograph






YouTube for Photographers: 3 Ways to get Started Using YouTube to Show and Promote your Photography


A Guest Post by Marlene Hielema







Video is all the rage. With virtually all digital cameras now able to capture live video, if you’re not shooting video you’re going to start to feel left out.


But video has a very steep learning curve!


Yes it does, but that doesn’t mean it’s impossible to get going. In this post I’m going to tell you about three ways you can use video to promote your photography, and I’ll start on the shallow end of the learning curve.


Why YouTube and not Vimeo or private hosting?


In a word: Traffic.



The goal of these videos is lead generation and they are used for marketing.


  • Video helps people to know, like, and trust you
  • From the video you can send them to your website where they can learn more about you
  • Then, get them to buy your photos, or to book a photo shoot with you

I’ve talked to photographers who have been scared off of YouTube. I say, “Embrace it and use it for what it’s best at”. Use YouTube for traffic, visibility and lead generation. Use YouTube for your public side, and save Vimeo and private hosting for private client videos.



google-youtube-logo.jpg



Benefits of YouTube

  • YouTube is owned by Google and is the #2 search engine (Google is #1).
  • Like other social media, it’s possible to build community on YouTube by getting comments, likes and subscribers.
  • Unlike other social media, YouTube videos are easy to keyword, and as a result easy to search and find.
  • Random access and always available – YouTube videos don’t disappear down the stream like Facebook and Twitter posts.
  • YouTube videos get better with age. More time online, equals more views.
  • Your YouTube videos will show up alongside other related videos so that people you don’t even know, will see them.
  • With other social media – people have to follow you or like you to see your content. Not so with YouTube.
  • Google likes videos, so it’s highly likely your videos will rank higher in search results than your website content.
  • And people are turning to video, and especially YouTube, more than ever to learn things and find out about products and services.
  • You don’t need a full fledged video production setup to start taking advantage of YouTube’s benefits.
  • Read the official YouTube stats here

yt-for-photo.png



Three types of videos you can make for YouTube


1. Portfolio video: Slideshow of still images – simplest way to get a video online


  • Take a gallery of no more than 20 photos – make it very specific not everything you do – for example family portraits
  • Use Lightroom’s Slideshow feature and export to video – Simplest and fastest way to get your photos to video
  • If you don’t have Lightroom, use PowerPoint or Keynote to make a slideshow of your photos
  • Upload to YouTube
  • Add keywords and phrases in the description and title of your video when you upload it – Example – Calgary family portrait photographer
  • Make several galleries of each type of photography you do
    • weddings – you can also break these topics down further
    • destination weddings
    • second time around weddings
    • maternity
    • babies
    • kids
  • Music: yes or no? It depends on your market, but current trends say “no”

  • 2. Profile: About you – builds trust and rapport


    • Involves you getting in front of the camera and that can be hard, but you’ll just need to get over it.
    • It’s a great way for people to see if you’re a good fit for their photo shoot.
    • Your profile video can also be done with a voiceover and photos, but I think it’s best to get in front of the camera so you can speak directly to people.

    3. Behind the scenes: Show what happens on one of your photo shoots


    • Maybe you’re a nature photographer and you can show how you approach a landscape or a wildlife shoot. You can do this with still photos and a voiceover similar to your portfolio video.
    • Keep the production simple and use your iPhone.
    • This adds value to your photographs as people see the amount of work that goes into a shoot.
    • Stop motion videos are also fun and easy to make and you can do behind-the-scenes videos this way too.
    • Some family and wedding photographers are using stylized stop motion videos as a bonus to a shoot.

    Video editing options


    Shooting video is relatively simple, especially if you start by using your iPhone. The steep part of the learning curve is the editing and exporting for web use.


    • You can use simple video editing software or screen recording software to produce your videos
    • iMovie – Free for Mac users
    • Camtasia for Mac and PC
    • Adobe Premier Elements – for Mac or PC. An affordable choice for beginners.
  • You can edit a movie right within YouTube as well.
  • START NOW!

    If you’ve never done video before, start with the portfolio video.

    • Review the steps above and remember to:
    • Keep it short 1-2 minutes in length.
    • Add a watermark – your url is best.
    • Add a picture of yourself too – remember this is to build trust.
  • Embed the video on your website or blog too.


  • Share it on Twitter, Facebook and G+.
  • Repeat the process with another group of images.
  • Remember it’s better to have more videos of shorter length than to have a large group of photos in a 20 minute video.
  • Before long you’ll have a collection of searchable, randomly accessible videos and you’ll be sending people to your website.

  • In future tutorials I’ll show you how to approach each method in greater detail, and some tools you can use to produce your videos.



    Do this next: Watch the video above to see an example of how I used it to drive traffic to this blog post. I’ve got an invitation and a benefit at the end of the video for you too.



    Are you using video to promote your photography yet? Let us know what technique you use in the comments.



    Marlene Hielema teaches photography and photo editing online, in the classroom, at corporate workshops and one-to-one. She’s also a camera raw evangelist and YouTube video blogger. Find out more about what she can help you with at www.imagemaven.com and look for her weekly video blog post on YouTube.



    YouTube:



    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.



    YouTube for Photographers: 3 Ways to get Started Using YouTube to Show and Promote your Photography


    20 Creative Packaging Designs Examples20 Creative Packaging Designs Examples









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